What the ring needs to meet, and why. Pick a topic, or start with the spec table below.
| Topic | Requirement | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Color | D, E or F | Anything below F |
| Clarity | VS1 or better | VS2 and lower |
| Cut | Excellent | Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor |
| Lab-grown method | CVD | HPHT |
| Band width | 1.8 mm or more | Under 1.8 mm |
| Width + height | 3.5 mm or more | Under 3.5 mm |
| Pavé | ⅔ pavé | Full pavé |
| Head position | On top of the shank (low, medium or high) | Head built into the shank |
| Prongs | Claw or tab. Double claw for extra durability. | Rounded prongs, oversized claws |
| Stone 3 to 3.5 ct or more | Euro shank | A big stone without a euro shank |
| Metal | Think it through | White gold needs replating every few years |
The GIA color scale runs from D, which is completely colorless, to Z, which has a clear yellow tint. Only the first three grades, the colorless group, are acceptable.
| Group | Grades | For us |
|---|---|---|
| Colorless | D · E · F | Yes |
| Near colorless | G · H · I · J | No |
| Faint | K · L · M | No |
| Very light | N – R | No |
| Light | S – Z | No |
Clarity grades how many inclusions (tiny internal marks) a diamond has. The scale runs from Flawless down to Included. The cut-off is VS1: VS1 is fine, VS2 is not.
| Grade | Name | Category | For us |
|---|---|---|---|
| FL | Flawless | Flawless | Yes |
| IF | Internally Flawless | Internally Flawless | Yes |
| VVS1 | Very Very Slightly Included 1 | Very Very Slightly Included | Yes |
| VVS2 | Very Very Slightly Included 2 | Very Very Slightly Included | Yes |
| VS1 | Very Slightly Included 1 | Very Slightly Included | Minimum |
| VS2 | Very Slightly Included 2 | Very Slightly Included | No |
| SI1 · SI2 · SI3 | Slightly Included | Slightly Included | No |
| I1 · I2 · I3 | Included | Included | No |
GIA grades the cut in five steps: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor. Only Excellent.
A lab-grown diamond can change color over time if it's made the wrong way. There are two main ways to make one:
| CVD | HPHT | |
|---|---|---|
| Stands for | Chemical Vapor Deposition | High Pressure, High Temperature |
| How it's made | Built layer by layer | Under high pressure and high temperature |
| Color | Better control over color and clarity | Nitrogen can leave some color in the stone |
| For us | Choose | Avoid |
The general rule is at least 1.6 mm for a plain band and 1.8 mm for a pavé band. For extra durability, stay above 1.8 mm whatever the style.
| Band style | General minimum | Our minimum |
|---|---|---|
| Plain band | 1.6 mm | 1.8 mm |
| Pavé band | 1.8 mm | 1.8 mm |
| Extra durability | Stay above 1.8 mm | |
Band height also makes a big difference to how durable the band is. Height is how thick the band is from the side. Add the width and the height together. The total has to be at least 3.5 mm.
| Width | Height | Total | Result |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1.8 mm | 1.9 mm | 3.7 mm | Passes |
| 2.0 mm | 2.0 mm | 4.0 mm | Passes |
| 1.8 mm | 1.6 mm | 3.4 mm | Too low |
Paying for a wider band is worth it, for two reasons.
Don't get a full pavé band. When stones go all the way around the band, the ring can't be resized. Even if it fits now, fingers and knuckles can change size, so keep the option to resize without remaking the ring.
The prongs that hold the stone should be built on top of the shank (the band), not into it. That leaves room for the wedding band to sit right next to the engagement ring.
Rounded prongs barely hold on to the diamond. If you knock the ring against something, they can bend and the stone can fall out. Claw prongs go over the diamond and hold it much more securely. Side by side, the claws clearly cover more of the stone.
| Prong | How it holds the stone | For us |
|---|---|---|
| Rounded | Barely holds on. Can bend if you knock the ring. | Avoid |
| Claw | Goes over the diamond and holds it securely | Yes |
| Tab (T) | Goes over the diamond and holds it securely | Yes |
| Double claw | 8 prongs instead of 4 | Most durable |
This advice comes from a jewelry designer.
A euro shank has extra gold added to the bottom corners of the ring. That stops the ring from spinning all the time and makes it much more durable day to day. The extra gold also spreads the force of a knock evenly.
With a diamond above 3 to 3.5 carats, you have to get a euro shank. A big stone makes the ring top-heavy, so it slides left and right on the finger even when it's the right size. The extra metal at the bottom corners balances the weight on top, so it doesn't spin.
Double claw rings look great and are much more durable for daily wear. Instead of four prongs holding the center stone, there are eight. If one prong breaks, the other seven still keep the stone in place.
Whichever jeweler you go to, make sure they make the double claw setting tastefully. Claws that are too big take away from the center stone.
White gold comes with maintenance for life.
White gold doesn't really exist as its own metal. It's made from pure gold, which is yellow, mixed with alloys that give it a silvery look. The bright white finish comes from rhodium plating. Because it's only plating, it wears off. To keep it bright white, the ring has to be replated every few years. Platinum is an option for a white look.
| Metal | What to know |
|---|---|
| White gold | Gold plus alloys under a rhodium plating that wears off. Needs replating every few years. |
| Platinum | An option for a white look |
A rough price based on Majestic's (majestic-ny.com) price list: 12 rings, each in 5 metals and up to 7 diamond grades. Pick the carat, diamond and metal. Between the carat sizes in the list, the price is estimated from the nearest two.
The price list doesn't include custom work like a euro shank, double claw prongs or a wider band. Once a jeweler quotes you for those, enter the amount under Extras.
For the diamond and metal you picked. The row for your carat is highlighted.
| Carat | Ring in the list | Shape | Price |
|---|
| Diamond (lab) | vs F VS1 | Your spec |
|---|
| Metal | vs 14K |
|---|
Prices from majestic-ny.com, downloaded 13 Nov 2026, in USD, without tax or shipping. They're one shop's prices, so use them as a rough guide. The source file is at data/majestic_engagement_ring_prices.csv.
The shape is the outline of the stone seen from above. Each shape behaves a little differently: some look bigger for their weight, some show color or inclusions more, and some have sharp points that need protecting.
| Shape | Good to know | Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Round | The most sparkle. The only shape that gets an official cut grade. | Looks smallest per carat. Most expensive per carat. |
| Oval | Looks bigger than a round of the same weight and makes the finger look longer. | Bow-tie (see A2). A length-to-width ratio of about 1.30–1.50 is the classic look. |
| Radiant | Rectangle with cut corners and lots of sparkle. Hides small inclusions well. | Can hold a little more color in the corners. |
| Cushion | Square or rectangle with soft, rounded corners. A soft, vintage look. | Many sub-styles. See it in person. |
| Princess | Square with sharp corners, very bright. | The sharp corners can chip. Choose prongs that cover the corners. |
| Emerald | Step cut with long "hall of mirrors" facets. Elegant rather than sparkly. | Shows inclusions and color more easily, because the facets are open. |
| Asscher | Square version of the emerald cut. | Same as emerald: inclusions and color are easier to see. |
| Pear | Teardrop shape, looks large. | Bow-tie. The point is fragile: use a V-prong on the tip. |
| Marquise | Long with two points. Looks the biggest per carat. | Bow-tie. Both points are fragile: use V-prongs. |
| Heart | Distinctive and romantic. | Needs a good, even shape. The point needs protecting. |
Ovals, pears and marquises (and sometimes radiants and cushions) can show a dark area across the middle shaped like a bow-tie. It comes from how light passes through the centre of the stone. Some is normal. A strong, very dark bow-tie makes the stone look dull.
GIA gives an overall cut grade (Excellent to Poor) only to round diamonds. For an oval, radiant or any other shape, the report won't have one. Use these instead:
| What to check | Where | What you want |
|---|---|---|
| Polish | On the report | Excellent |
| Symmetry | On the report | Excellent |
| Depth % (oval) | On the report | about 58–62% |
| Table % (oval) | On the report | about 53–63% |
| Length-to-width ratio (oval) | From the measurements | about 1.30–1.50 |
| Bow-tie | Only by eye | Faint or none (see A2) |
The depth and table ranges are common guidelines, not strict rules. Two stones with the same numbers can still look different, so always look at the stone itself.
Fluorescence means the diamond glows (usually blue) under UV light, such as strong sunlight. It's listed on the report. In colorless stones (D, E, F), strong fluorescence can sometimes make the stone look slightly hazy or milky.
| Grade | For a D–F stone |
|---|---|
| None | Best |
| Faint | Fine |
| Medium | Look at it in daylight |
| Strong · Very Strong | Avoid |
Carat is a weight, not a size. What you see on the finger is the width of the stone in millimetres. A stone cut too deep hides its weight underneath and looks smaller. A well-cut stone of the same weight looks bigger.
| Carat | Round (diameter) | Oval (length × width) |
|---|---|---|
| 0.50 | 5.1 mm | 6.0 × 4.0 mm |
| 1.00 | 6.5 mm | 7.7 × 5.7 mm |
| 1.50 | 7.4 mm | 8.8 × 6.2 mm |
| 2.00 | 8.1 mm | 9.7 × 6.9 mm |
| 2.50 | 8.7 mm | 10.4 × 7.4 mm |
| 3.00 | 9.3 mm | 11.0 × 7.9 mm |
| 3.50 | 9.8 mm | 11.6 × 8.3 mm |
| 4.00 | 10.2 mm | 12.1 × 8.7 mm |
Sizes are approximate and depend on how the stone is cut. Compare the measurements on the report, not just the carat. Remember: from about 3 ct, a euro shank is required.
Never buy a diamond without a report from an independent lab. For lab-grown diamonds that's usually IGI, sometimes GIA. A report from the shop itself doesn't count.
| On the report | Check |
|---|---|
| Report number | Look it up on the lab's website (IGI "Verify your report", GIA "Report Check"). The details have to match. |
| Shape & measurements | Length × width × depth in mm |
| Carat | Weight |
| Color | D, E or F |
| Clarity | VS1 or better |
| Cut | Excellent (round only). For other shapes, see A3. |
| Polish & symmetry | Excellent |
| Fluorescence | None or Faint (see A4) |
| Growth method | CVD |
| Post-growth treatment | See A7 |
| Laser inscription | Report number engraved on the edge of the stone (see A12) |
If a report describes color or clarity in words instead of the usual letter grades (D–Z, VS1 and so on), ask the jeweler what grades the stone would get, and compare like with like.
Many CVD diamonds get an extra step after they're grown: a heat-and-pressure treatment (HPHT treatment) that improves their color. That's a separate thing from an HPHT-grown diamond. The stone is still CVD. The report shows it with a line like "post-growth treatment" or "as-grown".
| Report says | Meaning | For us |
|---|---|---|
| CVD · As-grown | Grown with CVD, not treated afterwards | Cleanest option |
| CVD · Post-growth treatment | Grown with CVD, color improved afterwards | Your call, ask about it |
| HPHT | Grown with HPHT | Avoid |
Karat says how much pure gold is in the metal. Pure gold (24k) is too soft for a ring, so it's mixed with other metals. Less gold means harder metal but a paler yellow.
| Metal | Pure gold | Color | Hardness |
|---|---|---|---|
| 14k gold | 58.3% | Slightly paler yellow | Harder, scratches and bends less |
| 18k gold | 75% | Richer, warmer yellow | Softer, wears a little faster |
| Platinum | ~95% platinum | Naturally white, no plating | Dense and heavy. Scratches but doesn't wear away easily. Costs more. |
Some jewelers make the band in 18k for the color and the prongs in a harder metal (14k or platinum) for grip. Ask what's possible.
| Style | What it is | Keep in mind |
|---|---|---|
| Hidden halo | A ring of small diamonds under the centre stone, visible only from the side | A detail you see up close. The small stones need checking now and then. |
| Halo | Small diamonds around the centre stone, visible from the top | Makes the stone look bigger. More small stones to maintain. |
| Side stones | Extra stones next to the centre (for example three-stone) | More prongs to check. Make sure the wedding band still fits flush. |
Whatever you add, the main rules still apply: the head sits on top of the shank, the band is at least 1.8 mm, and the pavé is ⅔ at most.
The right size is the biggest factor against spinning, so it's worth getting right.
| Method | How |
|---|---|
| Borrow a ring | Take a ring she wears on the same finger to a jeweler, or trace the inside on paper. It has to be the same finger and the same hand. |
| Press into soap | Press the ring into a bar of soap or clay to take an impression of its inside. |
| Ask someone close | A friend or family member can find out casually. |
| Compare on your finger | Slide her ring onto your finger and mark where it stops. |
Tick them off as you go. The ticks are saved in this browser.
| Check | How |
|---|---|
| The stone is the one on the report | Ask to see the laser inscription on the girdle (the edge) under a loupe. The number has to match the report. |
| The measurements match | Compare the mm on the report with the stone. |
| The setting is solid | Prongs even and tight, stone doesn't move, nothing snags on fabric. |
| The specs match what you ordered | Band width and height, metal and karat, prong style, head position. |
| When | What |
|---|---|
| Every 1–2 weeks | Soak in warm water with mild dish soap, brush gently with a soft toothbrush, rinse and dry. |
| Every 6–12 months | Professional check and clean at a jeweler: prongs, small stones, band. |
| Every few years | Re-tip worn prongs if needed. Replate if the ring is white gold. |
| Right away | If the ring snags on clothes, the stone moves or clicks, or a prong looks bent, stop wearing it and take it to a jeweler. |